So, here's the thing. Sometimes when we are sitting in traffic or writing a Brief or trying to not be annoyed, we dream about being back at Papaya Playa. Oh those lounge swings on the beach. Oh those happy hour beverages. Oh the outdoor showers. Did I mention that the chairs at the bars are all swings?
Papaya Playa is rustic and primitive. There are no frills here. It's a few important steps up from camping. (One of us is not really a "camper" and was quite comfortable) But, the people are SUPER nice and helpful and the beach is beautiful and immaculate.
Most of the Cabanas are exposed to the elements - wind flows freely through the "walls", and the thatch roof may have a few little holes in it, but there are perfect little mosquito nets on the beds that keep all things off while you sleep -- and if you ask very nicely they will give you an extra flat-ish pillow.
The bathrooms are cleaned every morning and are well maintained. There are hot-water outdoor showers.
If you can help it, it's better to get there during the day because it can be a little disorienting at night (there is no electricity after 11 -- which is part of the charm).
When we were there the other guests tended to be mellow-ish backpackers (20-30yrs.) families, and couples.
We met up with friends of ours from home and had a fantastic (and very laid back) time waking with the sound of waves crashing on the beach, bleary-eyed-ly staking claim on a lounge swing, taking our morning swim and then hanging out all hard core. After 4pm or so we'd meander to the beach bar and finish our crossword puzzles while sipping cocktails on the bar swings. Then we'd head into town for great tacos al pastor and dream about doing the whole thing again the next day.
The food at the hotel is pretty expensive so we tended to go into town (via taxi) for dinners and often bought in town fresh tortillas, queso oaxaca, and avocado that we ate for lunch on the beach. But the few times we did eat at Papaya Playa the food was good. If you are going to choose to eat one meal at the hotel per day, we'd suggest breakfast. Seriously, if the food was less expensive we would have spent a lot more money at the hotel.
In sum:
Top 3 things we loved: Swings (all of them), The kind and helpful Staff, that it was an easy place to be.
Top 3 things we didn't love: The music on the beach (it just wasn't our thing - better to choose music than be forced into it), the mildewy mattresses (not that we didn't sleep like logs each night), we were told that there would be bikes and snorkels to rent, but there were weren't.
We will go back for sure. And hope that you want to too; especially if you are friendly-sorts who are not there to party all night and hit on folks. Cancun is better suited for your needs and we hope to preserve this lovely place where you can get a cocktail and so on, but you can also sleep for 13 hours, undisturbed.
